Cleaning Your Batteries

Batteries seem to attract dust, dirt, and grime. Keeping them clean will help one spot trouble signs if they appear and avoid problems associated with grime.

1. Check that all vent caps are tightly in place.
2. Clean the battery top with a cloth or brush and a solution of baking soda and water.
   When cleaning, do not allow any cleaning solution, or other foreign matter to get inside the battery.
3. Rinse with water and dry with a clean cloth.
4. Clean battery terminals and the inside of cable clamps using a post and clamp cleaner.
   Clean terminals will have a bright metallic shine.
5. Reconnect the clamps to the terminals and thinly coat them with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to prevent corrosion.
6. Keep the area around batteries clean and dry.

Flooded Battery Watering

Flooded batteries need water. More importantly, watering must be done at the right time and in the right amount or else the battery's performance and longevity suffers.


Water should always be added after fully charging the battery. Prior to charging, there should be enough water to cover the plates. If the battery has been discharged (partially or fully), the water level should also be above the plates. Keeping the water at the correct level after a full charge will prevent having to worry about the water level at a different state of charge.


Depending on the local climate, charging methods, application, etc. Trojan recommends that batteries be checked once a month until you get a feel for how thirsty your batteries are.
Important things to remember:
1. Do not let the plates get exposed to air. This will damage (corrode) the plates.
2. Do not fill the water level in the filling well to the cap. This most likely will cause the battery to overflow acid, consequently losing capacity and causing a corrosive mess.
3. Do not use water with a high mineral content. Use distilled or deionized water only.


CAUTION: The electrolyte is a solution of acid and water so skin contact should be avoided.


Step by step watering procedure:
1. Open the vent caps and look inside the fill wells.
2. Check electrolyte level; the minimum level is at the top of the plates.
3. If necessary add just enough water to cover the plates at this time.
4. Put batteries on a complete charge before adding any additional water (refer to the Charging section).
5. Once charging is completed, open the vent caps and look inside the fill wells.
6. Add water until the electrolyte level is 1/8" below the bottom of the fill well.
7. A piece of rubber can be used safely as a dipstick to help determine this level.
8. Clean, replace, and tighten all vent caps.


WARNING: Never add acid to a battery.

Battery Testing

Visual inspection alone is not sufficient to determine the overall health of the battery. Both open-circuit voltage and specific gravity readings can give a good indication of the battery's charge level, age, and health. Routine voltage and gravity checks will not only show the state of charge but also help spot signs of improper care, such as undercharging and over-watering, and possibly even locate a bad or weak battery. The following steps outline how to properly perform routine voltage and specific gravity testing on batteries.

I. Specific Gravity Test(Flooded batteries only)

1. Do not add water at this time.
2. Fill and drain the hydrometer 2 to 4 times before pulling out a sample.
3. There should be enough sample electrolyte in the hydrometer to completely support the float.
4. Take a reading, record it, and return the electrolyte back to the cell.
5. To check another cell, repeat the 3 steps above.
6. Check all cells in the battery.
7. Replace the vent caps and wipe off any electrolyte that might have been spilled.
8. Correct the readings to 80o F: Add .004 to readings for every 10o above 80o F /
   Subtract .004 for every 10o below 80o F.
9. Compare the readings.
10. Check the state of charge using Table 1.

The readings should be at or above the factory specification of 1.277 +/- .007. If any specific gravity readings register low, then follow the steps below.

1. Check and record voltage level(s).
2. Put battery(s) on a complete charge.
3. Take specific gravity readings again.

If any specific gravity readings still register low then follow the steps below.

1. Check voltage level(s).
2. Perform equalization charge. Refer to the Equalizing section for the proper procedure.
3. Take specific gravity readings again.

If any specific gravity reading still registers lower than the factory specification of 1.277+/- .007 then one or more of the following conditions may exist:

1. The battery is old and approaching the end of its life.
2. The battery was left in a state of discharge too long.
3. Electrolyte was lost due to spillage or overflow.
4. A weak or bad cell is developing.
5. Battery was watered excessively previous to testing.

Batteries in conditions 1 - 4 should be taken to a specialist for further evaluation or retired from service.

II. Open-Circuit Voltage Test

For accurate voltage readings, batteries must remain idle (no charging, no discharging) for at least 6 hrs, preferably 24 hrs.

1. Disconnect all loads from the batteries.
2. Measure the voltage using a DC voltmeter.
3. Check the state of charge with Table 1.4. Charge the battery if it registers 0% to 70% charged.

If battery registers below the Table 1 values, the following conditions may exist:

1. The battery was left in a state of discharge too long.
2. The battery has a bad cell.Batteries in these conditions should be taken to a specialist for further evaluation or retired from service.

TABLE 1. State of charge as related to specific gravity and open circuit voltage

Battery Inspection

There are many tools that may help in properly caring for and maintaining batteries. Below is a list of basic items that Trojan recommends for this task:

Recommended Equipment:

• Wrench
• Distilled Water
• Voltmeter
• Hydrometer
• Post Cleaner
• Baking Soda
• Vaseline
• Goggles & Gloves

CAUTION: Always wear protective clothing, gloves, and goggles when handling batteries, electrolyte, and charging your battery.

Batteries should be carefully inspected on a regular basis in order to detect and correct potential problems before they can do harm. It is a great idea to start this routine when the batteries are first received.

Inspection Guildlines:

1. Examine the outside appearance of the battery.
   Look for cracks in the container.
   The top of the battery, posts, and connections should be clean, free of dirt, fluids, and corrosion. If batteries are dirty, refer to the Cleaning section for the proper cleaning procedure.
   Repair or replace any damaged batteries.
2. Any fluids on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is spilling, leaching, or leaking out.
   Leaking batteries must be repaired or replaced.
3. Check all battery cables and their connections.
   Look closely for loose or damaged parts.
   Battery cables should be intact; broken or frayed cables can be extremely hazardous.
   Replace any cable that looks suspicious.
4. Tighten all wiring connections to the proper specification (see below). Make certain there is good contact with the terminals.
   

Proper Torque Values for Connection Hardware:
Flooded

• Automotive 50-70 in-lbs
• Side 70-90 in-lbs
• Wingnut 95-105 in-lbs
• LPT 95-105 in-lbs
• Stud 120-180 in-lbs
• LT 100-120 in-lbs
  

VRLA

• Button 90 to 100 in-lbs
• LT 100-120 in-lbs

WARNING: Do not overtighten terminals. Doing so can result in post breakage, post meltdown, or fire.

Definition of Battery Types

Lead acid batteries are generally classified by application (what they are used for) and by construction (how they are made). The primary application is automotive in which the battery is used for starting and lighting. Deep cycle is another major application but is usually broken down into more specific applications such as RV, golf cars, renewable energy, and marine.

There are two popular construction types: flooded batteries (wet) and VRLA batteries (Valve Regulated Lead Acid). In the flooded types, the electrolyte is a solution of sulfuric acid and water that can spill out if the battery is tipped over. In VRLA batteries, the electrolyte is suspended in a gel or a fiberglass-mat (AGM technology), allowing these batteries to be mounted in a variety of positions.

Before getting started, be sure to identify the type of battery involved.

Simple Module Installation Tips and Tricks

Working with MC Connectors
on a Solar Module
In Low Voltage Solar Applications

Most 12 Volt solar modules come with a Junction Box (JBox) to make easy connections. A JBox is shown to the right. MC Connectors are the next generation connector and are used most often in high voltage residential and commercial applications. MC Connectors are shown below to the left. But some manufacturers are now using MC Connectors in place of Junction Boxes.

If you have a 12 Volt system and a low voltage module with an MC Connector and you want to connect your module in parallet, just cut the MC Connectors off. Before you cut the ends, make note of which connector is postive and which is negative. We usually mark with a piece of tape (red for positive). To verify, or if you cut the ends before marking the cables, use your volt meter. Set the meter to "Volts." The meter will tell you the polarity of the cable (either positive or negative). Once you've cut the cables, use a butt connector to hook the panels in parallel for a 12 Volt system.